The Ultimate Travel Guide to Portland, Oregon is Now Available!

It's taken me way to long to write a guide to one of my favorite cities in the US - Portland, OR... but better late than never, right? This isn't just a place I've visited once for a weekend and thrown some random places together - it's one of those cities that I visit over and over again because it feels a little like going home where there's a bit of everything to enjoy. If you are wondering what to do, where the best restaurants are and what hotel to stay in when traveling to Portland, I've got it all here for you in an quick and easy guide. The spots I've listed are deep rooted in my heart and in my stomach and I guarantee you'll love Portland just as much as I do if you follow it closely. Just click below. Enjoy! 

Portland, Oregon

All You Need to Know to Plan the Perfect Visit

Osteria Francescana - The Ultimate Culinary Experience

 

Let me start out by saying that if you haven't watched Chef's Table on Netflix - you need to. Seriously, stop reading and just go. The series takes you through the life and culinary journeys of the most critically acclaimed chefs in the world, including Chef Massimo Bottura of Osteria Francescana (Season 1, Episode 1).  After simply falling in love with Chef Bottura and the unique passion he brings to transforming traditional Italian food in April of 2015, my husband and I started planning our trip to Italy to visit this three Michelin Star, number two rated restaurant in the world to taste it for ourselves. 

CHECK OUT MY COMPLETE TRAVEL GUIDE TO MODENA HERE

 

THE OVERLY DRAMATIC STORY OF HOW I SNAGGED ONE OF THE RAREST RESERVATIONS IN THE WORLD

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As you can imagine, reservations are not that easy to come by.  With only 12 tables for lunch and 12 tables for dinner - you need to be on your game to score one of these coveted spots. Reservations open up 3 months in advance (example: bookings for the entire month of July will open up on April 1st) and can be made online or you can try calling.  I had already booked our flights and hotel stay for Modena, so I was determined to get a reservation during one of the 3 days I had in town - lunch or dinner didn't matter to me.

Here's what happened:

• I set calendar reminders for my husband and I for 12:01 am on August 1st Italian time (to make November reservations). 
• Unfortunately, unlike many high end restaurants in the US that give you an exact time for when the reservation system opens up, this is Italy and it could be at any point so I needed to leave my schedule open to try for a while.
• 12:01 am - Once the timer went off, my husband and I went to work, clicking and clicking.  And for a while we tried... and tried... literally clicking every 5-10 minutes to refresh the site until November reservations opened up. I clicked for 9 hours - until just after midnight my time.  At that point I was exhausted and figured that it could be hours, if not days until it opened up - so I went to sleep with the intention of trying again in the morning.  I also knew that I would be in Italy for over 2 weeks so I had plenty of dates that I could make work even if my preferred dates happened to get booked. Worst case scenario, I wake up in the morning and we have to make reservations for another day and just drive from Florence to Modena for dinner - it would be worth it. No big deal; time for bed.
• 4am - I woke up in a panic.  Holy crap, what have I done? What was I thinking going to sleep??? This is the number 2 restaurant in the world, the worst case scenario is that I don't get a reservation and miss my chance completely even though I've already booked our entire trip around this one meal!!! So I got my ass out of bed.
• 4:05 am  - I stumble into the living room in the dark, open up my laptop - blinded by the glow of the screen - and hit refresh on the reservation site... Only to find that my biggest fear had come true; the entire month of November was booked solid for both lunch and dinner.  Sometime between the time I went to sleep at midnight to the time I woke up at 4am every single table had been reserved. How is that even possible?
• So what did I do? I started crying. Not something I'm proud of and believe me, I get that there are way more important things going on in the world, but in my world at the moment this was catastrophic. And come on, I'm a luxury travel blogger, what do you want from me?!? My husband loves to tell the story of how he woke up at 5am, wondered why I wasn't in bed and found me in the dark, tears streaming down my face staring at my computer (for some reason he forgets to tell the part about how he laughed, patted me on the head and went back to bed). 
• Through my tears, I frantically put myself on the waiting list for every single day I would be in Italy - basically putting in the notes that I was willing to come any day, any time, just tell me when! I'm sure they could smell my desperation and the pathetic tremble in my voice. 
• So I waited... and waited... basically planning my last resort of showing up at the front door of the restaurant for lunch and dinner each day I was in Modena until they felt sorry for me (or annoyed, I didn't really care about the details) and finally just let me sit in the corner of the kitchen.
• 3 days later I got the email I had been hoping for - I was in! They had a cancellation and they were able to get me in for lunch on one of the days we were actually in Modena - hallelujah! I happened to be in my office, in a meeting when I got the email and screamed out loud.   All the anticipation and tears and anxiety had paid off, we were set.  We were later told by Lara (Chef Bottura's wife) that they often get people booking several spots initially then cancelling, so it's always a good idea to put your name on the waitlist because they are often able to fit people in. 

 

THE MEAL

Everything about the meal was superb.  We were warmly greeted by Lara, wife of Chef Bottura, and she was just as lovely and engaging as you would expect.  We sat in one of two small and simply decorated dining rooms with only 5 other tables.  There are two tasting menu options - Traditional, based on the dishes he is known for and Sensations, his newer culinary experiments. I'm not sure if this is always the case, but we had the option of a combination of the two menus, highlighting the best of both in roughly 15 courses - which is of course the one we ordered. 

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Over the course of our three hour lunch our senses were challenged unlike ever before as we witnessed the art of food at the highest level. With every single dish, we were surprised by the ingenious flavor pairings, taking in the magnificent colors and textures in each creation. What Osteria Francescana brings to the world of food is masterful.  To provide context - we recently ate at the #5 rated restaurant in the world in New York City and it doesn't hold a candle to what Chef Bottura and his team are presenting at Osteria Francescana.  At the end of our meal, we were lucky enough to get a private tour of the kitchen to meet the artists behind each dish, including Chef Taka who is the creator of the famous dessert - Oops, I Dropped the Lemon Tart! The staff were all so kind and gracious, even asking if they could take a group photo with us - my heart nearly exploded with joy as you can see from the gitty grin I have plastered on my face in the picture.  Unfortunately, Chef Bottura's train was delayed from Milan and we were unable to meet him - our only regret of the entire experience. We dream about the day we will return, fondly looking back at the memories we made as we ate the best meal of our lives. 

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IMPORTANT DETAILS TO KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

• Confirming Your Reservation: You have to confirm your reservation either via email or by phone 48 hours prior to your reservation date. If you do not do this, you will lose your table. The easiest thing to do is to ask your concierge at the hotel to call and confirm for you - just don't forget!
• Parking: We struggled with this a bit ourselves, so please read carefully so you don't make the same mistakes we did.
  •  The city center does not allow for cars to drive through and many streets are actually restricted for use other than by special vehicles, so obey your GPS because you can get a ticket if you're not careful. We made the mistake of making a wrong turn and luckily a kind Italian gentleman flagged us down and helped us out.  Because of this, you can't park in front of the restaurant,  you'll need to park on or near Viale Vittorio Veneto 59 and walk about 3-5 minutes to Osteria Francescana.  This is a very safe street (photos below) so definitely park here if you can.
  • Here's where it's even trickier - you'll need to pay for parking at one of the parking meter machines ON the street you are parked on (not on a parallel one like I did the first time, you can only use machines ON the street you are parked on).  The machines are there, you may just have to walk up and down the street a bit to find them. You can only use cash or debit cards, not credit cards, which you would not be able to understand unless you can read in Italian so I suggest bringing coins.  
  • Please keep in mind that this is a very traditional Italian area so we found it hard to find anyone in the vacinity of where we parked that spoke English - but if you need change there is a small convenience store that you can pop into.  
  • Finally, the meter says something in Italian about 1pm - 2pm being free, confusing us even more. I asked a local and they explained that the hours you pay for take this into account so if you arrive at 12pm, pay for 4 hours, you are actually covered until 5pm since it includes the additional free hour of parking. This probably only matters if you are coming for lunch, but it's important to note just in case.  I've included a GoogleMap below to explain what I'm talking about. 
• Attire: Osteria Francescana is a fine dining restaurant, so you'll want to dress accordingly.  For our lunch reservations, I wore a simple black dress with heels and my husband wore slacks and a blazer - smart business attire. This seemed to be on par with the other diners. 
• Cost: You can expect to pay around $500 per couple for the tasting menu, before tip and alcohol. With a wine pairing, it's another $150 per person. Of course, you can always order a la carte, but I would only suggest this if you were planning on returning - otherwise you'll miss the whole experience.  Also, it is customary to tip at fine dining restaurants throughout Europe - 10-15% is sufficient. 
• Cameras: They are a bit strict about this... if you simply have a point and shoot or phone camera, that seems to be just fine; however, anything larger needs to be approved ahead of time. I had emailed about my camera (a basic DSLR, nothing too fancy) and was told it would be fine as long as it's not professional gear - no tri-pods, flash, bulky lenses, etc. However, when I arrived, I was asked by the manager not use my camera - I'm assuming he felt it looked professional.  I assured him that there would be no tools and I would be discrete and was given permission... kind of.  Of course, this made me nervous about it the entire time, so I didn't get the photos I wanted. Just keep this in mind when you go, but I did see other people at the tables around us taking photos with their smaller, personal cameras with no problem.  I do realize that this is to ensure that others dining are not bothered and the experience of the meal is not ruined - but this is one of those once in a lifetime meals so I had to do what I had to do. 

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For even more fun photos and info on this beautiful city, 

DON'T FORGET TO CHECK OUT MY COMPLETE TRAVEL GUIDE TO MODENA HERE

Modena, Italy

Planning a Visit to Rotorua, New Zealand - Tranquility Beyond the Tourism

For my full travel guide to The North Island click here

If you're planning a vacation to New Zealand's North Island, you've got to make a stop in Rotorua. It's the island's volcanic and cultural epicenter and a perfect location for checking off multiple sights on your New Zealand bucket list.  Unfortunately, because Rotorua is so packed with beauty and activities, it's fairly touristy... like it's one of the few places we visited on the island where we passed multiple fast food restaurants and major hotel chains kind of touristy.  However, don't let this scare you away, if you look beyond the initial "Orlando" facade (if you've ever been to Orlando, you'll know what I'm referring to), there's many unique and worthwhile gems to explore.  

A few important notes before you begin: My husband and I visited in early spring (August/September) so Rotorua was fairly quiet compared to the very busy summer months and we stayed for three nights, which is just enough for both activities and relaxation, but 2 nights is doable if you cut out the relaxation part. Keep the time of year in mind when it comes to booking tours, activities and places to stay because you'll want to plan ahead and do expect crowds during high season (October - April). Finally, anticipate a strong sulfur smell due to the volcanic activity, especially during warmer months (on the bright side, passing gas in public was never easier). 

 

Where to Stay

There are really only a few high-end accommodations in the area and aren't as easy to find as you would expect. Like I said, this is a city flooded with chains like Holiday Inns and family friendly motels... not exactly my scene, but there are three luxury lodges that meet my Type-A personality and one of those that I highly recommend. I'll list them all for you and include a full feature of my favorite, The Black Swan Lakeside Boutique Hotel and Spa. 

 

The Black Swan Lakeside Boutique Hotel and Spa

Just minutes from the center of town is a hidden sanctuary of solitude and panoramic views unlike any in the city. The Black Swan Lakeside Boutique Hotel and Spa is a family owned lodge that provides all of the touches of a high-end hotel, while offering a personalized and authentic customer experience. The location is fantastic because you can quickly and easily be at any of the main attractions in town, but can also hide away from the hoards of travelers without losing the gorgeous view. My favorite part about the Black Swan are the grounds - imagine The Secret Garden meets Dante's Peak meets the finale episode of the Bachelor... ok, maybe that wasn't very helpful.  Bottomline, it's postcard perfect with a cooked-to-order breakfast each morning and, of course, dozens of black swans waiting to greet you lakeside. But, I'll be honest, the decor is a bit too contemporary for my taste and the website leaves much to be desired, which is why I've tried to provide as many photos to show off what this exquisite property has to offer. 

The hotel has lakeside, lakefront and garden facing rooms, but my preference would definitely be the lakeside suites. These spacious rooms are somewhat detached from the main building offering added privacy, have their own porch fireplace looking out at the lake and some are even equipped with a separate alcove with a twin bed, perfect for families.  Rooms have a stocked mini fridge and snacks, all included in your stay. The bathrooms are huge, with double sinks, glass shower and a luxurious stone soaking tub (quick note: the bathtub does get a dark ring around the drain as do some of the other white stone fixtures due to the volcanic matter in the water, I promise it's not dirty - just a minor adjustment for being in a geothermal hotspot!). 

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The property has other amazing perks as well, including onsite parking, a lakefront facing game/sitting room, solar heated swimming pool, old fashioned gardens and gazebo, helicopter pad, private dock, sauna, day spa and a secluded sandy beach. My favorite spot is on the second story wrap around balcony watching the sun go down with a cup of tea and a blanket; the view is unbeatable. Even though there were so many things to do in the area, one of the days we simply cancelled all of our plans to enjoy the peace and quiet of the property. 

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Other Accommodation Options

Solitaire Lodge - 5 star, starting at $1,200 USD per night

Treetops Lodge - 5 star, starting at $1,200 USD per night. We had reservations to stay here for one night, but it was later cancelled due to the property shutting down for renovations. As a customer experience, it wasn't the best so I would think twice before booking a stay here in the future.  

 

What to Do

There are so many great outdoor activities in Rotorua, especially if you take some time to drive just beyond the city. Some of the country's finest lakes, hikes and conservation efforts can all be found here so be sure to plan time to explore. 

Canopy Tour

There is currently only one Canopy Tour on the North Island of New Zealand and Rotorua Canopy Tours is it. I know what you're thinking - you've gone zip lining before in Hawaii or Costa Rica or whatever tropical place you've been to in your lifetime... so have I. But let me say, this one was by far my favorite and not just because it has some of the tallest and longest zip lines I've ever experienced - it's because of the incredible knowledge you gain about New Zealand's unique eco system and the intense conservation efforts that this group is doing to save the island's native birds.  What I didn't realize before going on the tour is that nearly all of the island's indigenous bird population are under attack and fearing extinction due to predators such as cats, rats and possums that have been introduced into the once predator free eco system over the years. Because these larger rodents have no natural predators to naturally control their rapidly growing population, they are killing off the island's native birds at an alarming rate (every night 70,000 native birds are killed by pests in New Zealand, with about 260 million killed each year) and the team at Rotorua Canopy Tours is working hard to raise funds and awareness to protect these endangered animals.

The three hour tours are small, no more than 10 people at a time, with 2 fun and knowledgeable guides to keep you safe and entertained along the way. I am terrified, and I mean terrified, of heights (can barely stand on a chair without getting dizzy kind of fear), but the guides did a phenomenal job of helping me through the course and putting me at ease. This is a really fun and fulfilling adventure for kids and adults of all ages and abilities - trust me, if I can do it, anyone can! 

Tips: Bring a camera, closed toed shoes and dress appropriately for the weather - but if it's cold, they have extra gloves, hats and scarves you can borrow for extra warmth!

 

Hells Gate Mud Spa

Looking for some relaxation? Then Rotorua is your spot for some of the purest, silkiest mud spas in the world.  Hells Gate Mud Spa is my personal favorite for a few reasons - it's less touristy, it's an authentic experience (this isn't a high-end European spa, much more rustic and spiritual) and has an extensive thermal park with guided tours so you can get a better understanding for this sacred, geothermic region.  For the ultimate experience, book a tour and schedule a soak in both the geothermal mud baths and sulphur spa, with natural minerals and health benefits coming right from the source.  I also brought home quite a few of the Alite products that are made from mud from there at the thermal park and super inexpensive compared to the hundreds of dollars similar products cost in the states.  Also, at the end of the tour, you get a chance to learn about the art of Maori carving and make your own carving block (it's a lot harder than it looks... let's just say that mine won't be hanging on the wall anytime soon). 

Important Tips:

• Make sure that everything you bring can be washed with the potential to be tossed! The sulphur is strong and will stick to your clothes. If you don't get it out, the last thing you want to do is put it in your luggage with everything else because your entire wardrobe will wreak of rotten eggs.   I can't stress this enough. I brought plastic flip flops, cheap cotton clothing and an old bathing suit that I threw away after. Bring a plastic bag to put all of your wet stuff in too. You can also rent a swim suit there for $5, which is a really good option to save you some stress. 
• The sulphur water stings the eyes and even if you don't get the water directly in your eyes, it comes up through the rising steam. I brought eye drops which helped as well as wearing sunglasses or even goggles if you're super sensitive. 
• Drink plenty of water, it's hot and you can get dehydrated quickly.
• Try not to get the sulphur water in your hair, but if you do be sure to wash it thoroughly as soon as possible. I was an idiot and didn't wash my hair until the next day and even though I only got water on the tips of my hair, it smelled for weeks! However, this only happens to totally lazy people like myself who fall asleep before a quick shampoo; normal, responsible people won't have any issues. Which reminds me - ladies, be sure to bring a hair tie! 
• There are showers there to wash it all off so definitely utilize this for your body, hair and your wet clothes.

 

Tamaki Maori Dinner and Cultural Experience 

One of the most beautiful parts of New Zealand is the Maori culture and a visit isn't complete without learning about the history, customs and culture of the Maori people.  The Tamaki Maori Experience is the highest rated and most popular in the area, even by locals and is a unique and entertaining event for all ages.  The three hour evening includes a tour through the village where you learn about traditions and customs, an entertaining performance and a Hangi buffet feast with typical New Zealand desserts.  It's fun, engaging, energetic, moving and delightfully filling - a great way to spend an evening in Rotorua. 

 

Local Walks and Hikes

There are a plethora of fantastic outdoor activities in and around Rotorua to take part in. Here you'll find some of New Zealand's best lakes, hikes, adventure sports and conservation efforts so be sure to plan time in your itinerary for some exploring in this picturesque city. 

 

Green Lake & Blue Lake

This is a great stop a short drive from the city. It's hard to tell from the photo, but Green Lake is on the left and Blue Lake is on the right and you can leisurely walk/hike around the perimeter of both of them. Green Lake is actually privately owned, sacred Maori land so it's glassy, eerily still and seriously green (which is why it's so hard to see in the photo) and Blue Lake is recreational and there are activity rentals available for use.  Colin and I packed a picnic one chilly afternoon and sat at one of the tables around Blue Lake and spent the day taking photos.  If you just want to soak in the view, there's a parking/lookout area just beyond Blue Lake that takes you to the spot between both lakes. 

 

Tarawera Trail

Tarawera Trail was one of those unplanned stops that we made while we were driving around and exploring the area. Just off of the main road we saw a parking lot next to open landscape, perfect for leisurely trekking along, because as you know I'm afraid of heights. Well, my dream of trampling through open fields was short lived because the scenery was wildly deceiving. There is one trail that you take, that takes a turn from the flatlands taking hikers on a one track hike deep into a vast canyon where all you can see is the tops of trees and all you can hear is the sound of (what I can only expect) is a very large waterfall somewhere in the distance. For many, this is paradise... for me it's my worst nightmare. Needless to say, about 2 miles in we turned back after Colin ran ahead and there was no end of the cliffs in sight. I sat, clinging to a mossy rock taking photos without looking down. We've learned from our previous experiences not to push me too far unless we can afford for a helicopter to come save me when I inevitably become I'm paralyzed with fear (at this point we cannot afford such luxuries).  No matter what, the first mile and a half is perfect for all ages and a super easy and beautiful walk through New Zealand's native brush and if you're adventurous and enjoy a good hike, keep going! You'll eventually end up at Hot Water Beach for a fabulous hot spring experience right on the beach.  Don't worry if you don't think you can make it all the way, you'll know when to turn around, it's pretty clear. 

 

Redwood Walk

When I was doing research for our trip, I kept coming across these photos of redwood trees, which I thought was so odd considering they are called California Redwoods for a reason... Well, it turns out that in 1901, someone brought trees over from Cali and planted them in the middle of New Zealand, how random. What we found was Whakarewarewa Forest - this serene redwood park next to this incredibly clear, turquoise lagoon filled with wild birds. It's actually kind of crazy, when we parked, we got out of the car and dozens of ducks, chickens, geese and random birds came running up to us - initially I thought it was because I was a fairytale princess and they were coming to pay tribute... but then realized they are just used to being fed by visitors. Lame. You can do the walk around the lagoon and through the redwood grove in about an hour and there's miles of hiking and walking paths just beyond the water for a longer adventure. 

 

Where to Eat

Like I said, this is a city filled with chain restaurants and mediocre tourist spots so it was a little harder to find unique, unforgettable restaurants - but we did find a couple really memorable places. 

 

Ciabatta Bakery

Ciabatta Bakery is a just right for breakfast and a perfect stop for grabbing goods for a quick bite or lakeside picnic. Sandwiches are fresh and delicious and they have a large variety of pastries, including gluten free and paleo friendly snacks!

 

Be Rude Not To Cafe

This is a local favorite right in the center of town. Stop in Be Rude Not To for a good coffee, gourmet sandwich or hot pizza. They use high end ingredients to create unique twists on lunchtime favorites and traditional New Zealand dishes. 

 

Bistro 1284

We had one of the best meals we had here at Bistro 1284 - a hidden gem and local Rotorua favorite. We actually found out about it because it's owned by the same family who owns The Black Swan Hotel and they offer to shuttle guests to and from the restaurant for free - which meant we actually got to share a bottle of wine (instead of me having a glass, Colin having 3 and then me driving us home while he snores in the passenger seat).  This is a fine dining neighborhood bistro with an innovative menu, strong wine list and dishes packed with local, seasonal ingredients. My only regret is not eating here two nights in a row (I wasted one of our nights at a terrible restaurant... I should have known that a buffet that you have to take a Gondola to is a clear tourist trap. I make mistakes too, ok?). 

Remember to check out my full travel guide to visiting The North Island here.

Check out my tripcipe map below so you can see spatially where everything is for easier planning on where you want to go!